Toast to wines’ success

Pat Hardiker’s eyes shine as brightly as a glass of his finest sauvignon blanc. The conversation has just turned to one of his favourite topics.
Pat, owner and winemaker at Tynong’s respected Cannibal Creek, is a great believer in the potential of the wine region that sits right on Pakenham’s doorstep.
If he and other local vignerons had their way, West Gippsland would one day be ranked alongside internationally renowned wine producing areas like Margaret River and the Barossa.
“This area rivals the best in Australia for sauvignon blanc,” Pat said.
“I think it is a very exciting time. We are starting to see some real recognition for what is happening here. The sky’s the limit, really.”
Granted, that’s not to say hordes of international tourists are yet descending in specially chartered buses to sample the fresh chardonnays, crisp sauvignon blancs and sensual pinot noirs that are quickly becoming a trademark of this area.
But Pat and his wine industry peers have plenty of faith in the quality of product. Already, there is a buzz about this small part of the winemaking world that suggests global recognition may not be so much a matter of if as when.
Pat and wife Kirsten are among a growing group of producers at the forefront of a new dawn of appreciation for local food and wine.
Asparagus, potatoes and other market vegetables sit alongside the best apples and pears, finest cheeses and meats on a menu that would have any chef salivating.
The recent long weekend saw the final of the Gateway to Gippsland Signature Dish competition at Warragul and the monthly Cardinia Farmers’ Market at Pakenham.
The market has become a showcase of quality produce with a ‘paddock to plate’ approach.
The signature dish contest brought together several top chefs sourcing ingredients around the region and matched their offerings with the best local wines.
Success for Cannibal Creek, Officer’s D’Angelo estate and other regional wine producers at the recent Gippsland Wine Show should help to raise the profile even further.
Cannibal Creek picked up the trophy for Best Dry Red for their 2005 Merlot and won medals in a host of other categories.
Benny D’Angelo’s 2004 Lady chardonnay was not only named Wine of the Year, it also picked up the trophies for Best Chardonnay and Best White Wine.
Benny said the success emphasised the growing recognition of the area as a treasure trove for wine enthusiasts.
“This certainly helps to put us on the map,” he said.
Also doing their bit are three of Australia’s most respected wine critics, James Halliday, Ralph KytePowell and Jeremy Oliver.
Qantas passengers have been reading Oliver’s glowing appraisals of this area — “the future of topend Australian sauvignon blanc” — in their inflight magazines.
Oliver suggests that the local cool climate wines could eventually knock the benchmark New Zealand and French producers off their lofty perch.
“Cannibal Creek, a small vineyard in Gippsland, releases a tightly focused austere and chalky wine that bursts with pristine herbal, floral aromas and vibrant gooseberry and citrus fruit,” Oliver said.
“Another emergent Victorian maker is Chestnut Hill, near Pakenham. Its sauvignon blanc is typically more complex and smoky, with taut acids, lingering minerality and stony texture.”
The two local wines were put first and second on Oliver’s list of the best Australian sauvignon blancs.
The high praise does not stop there.
Halliday’s 2006 guide to the best wines in Australia makes healthy mention of the area.
The grey clayloam soils of the area produce shiraz, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir.
Charlie and Ivka Javor have always put quality first and foremost and are starting to get interest from overseas buyers. The fruits of their Mount Burnett vineyard, established in 1985, are complementing food at many of Melbourne’s top restaurants.
Charlie acknowledged that the styles of wine he produces are not always typical of their commercial ‘identity’, but makes no apology for that.
“It’s no good to be typical, it doesn’t get you anywhere. We put quality on top.”
Pakenham Upper couple Michael and Jenny Pullar planted the first grapes at their Limbic vineyard nearly 10 years ago and were rewarded when they won first place at the Victorian Wine Regions Showcase Series last year.
Their 2003 Limbic chardonnay took out the prestigious prize as part of the Gippsland section.
The awards were part of a special Federation Square celebration of great wines from across the wine growing regions of Victoria.
Their 2004 sauvignon blanc was judged second in a trination challenge involving Australia, South Africa and New Zealand.
Jenny said they were thrilled to win the awards and hoped to expand their winemaking business during the next few years. They and other local wineries were all experiencing similar challenges, she said.
“We are all very small boutique wineries and have all had good years. Certainly this area is emerging,” she said.
“As the vines age, the wines become a bit more complex. It’s a tough market but there’s no doubt things are happening.”
Jenny said the Limbic name originated from her husband’s work as a neurosurgeon.
“The limbic system in the brain connects aroma and taste senses to an emotion,” she said.
Kirsten Hardiker can certainly vouch for the emotional attachment that local food and wine inspires among its growing legion of fans.
Kirsten, who has put a lot of work nurturing the area’s reputation behind the scenes, said the rewards meant more because they were based on such solid foundations.
“The message is getting through, this whole West Gippsland region is fantastic.”